The only way to go Changhaizi is either trek or ride a mule for two or three days from the village of Sanyanlong.

Sanyanlong ( 三岩龙乡) is a village of about 1,000 households. The village is spread out along the Sanyanlong River and is divided into 10 sections. Its average height is 2,250m.

Walking time: Three to four days. Photos: Click here.

Access: See Map - Around Jiulong.

Sanyanlong is about 67km from Jiulong and is approximately four hours away on a mountainous track that is only negotiated by 4WD-type vehicles. The road is rough and traverses up and down a couple of mountains. The sceneries along the way are those of high mountains and forests, scenic in parts.

Most mornings from 7.30am, there are either trucks or jeeps that transport goods to Sanyanlong, waiting for passengers at Jiulong’s main square. They leave when they are full. It costs 50 RMB per passenger to get to Sanyanlong.

Similarly vehicles that go to Jiulong will gather at the centre of Sanyanlong village at section #5 (the centre) every morning about 7.30am for passengers. The same fare of 50 RMB is charged.

Local Guide:

From Sanyanlong, one can hire guides and mules relatively easily as most of the villagers work as herdsmen for most part of the year and are familiar with all the trails. I hired a guide at 150 RMB per day, including food and accommodation. The cost of hiring a mule varies depending on the season as well where in the village one is hiring from. I was told that hiring a mule could costs anything from 200 RMB a day upwards if one hires from villagers in section #5 and higher, as these sections are closer to the branching point to Changhaizi. I was advised that mules are cheaper to hire in the earlier parts of the village.

The following are the people that have provided me with excellent service and care and are highly recommended. There are no phones or signals at Sanyanlong but are easy to find someone with a name and location:
- Nirma Tseri alias Yang Ming Wang at Lawalin (section #9)- 杨明玛 (九队)
- Langjiao at section #4- 郎角 (四队)

Description: See Map

Sanyanlong - Lawalin (4 hours)

From Sanyanlong, it is a four-hour of uphill trek to another village named Lawalin (拉洼林), which is situated at about 3,200m. Lawalin is actually part of Sanyanlong, designated as section #9. The trek to the village is not very strenuous and there are good views of various parts of Sanyanlong from high, along the trail. Lawalin itself is a very peaceful little village of only 12 households, most of them related to each other. It is perched at the side of a hilltop with reasonable views (electricity is available in the village). I stayed at the home of my guide’s relative.

Upper Sanyanlong Village

Lawalin - Changhaizi (4 hours)

From Lawalin it is another four hours walk to Changhaizi. It is a moderate climb for the first 1 ½ hours, followed by downhill and then another slightly longer moderate climb to Changhaizi.

Changhaizi is an elongated lake with crystal clear cold water. The centre of the lake appears to be rather deep. It is surrounded by forests on one side and rocks tumbling down the hillside on the other. At one end there are pastures where herders let their livestock roam for most part of the year. At the opposite end is a small stream from melted snow from the snow-capped mountains that feed the lake.

The lake view is dominated by a couple of snow-capped peaks, the highest of which is the Maidi Gongga Peak (麦地贡嘎山) of approximately 4,600m, standing at one end. On any clear morning, one can enjoy a perfect reflection of the mountain on the lake.

Reflections on Changhaizi

Accommodations:

Sanyanlong: there are two accommodation options in the centre of the village (section #5). One of them is very basic while the other, Changhaizi Kezhan (长海子客栈) is simple but clean. Each room (double) costs 50 RMB. The proprietor here can help to arrange for guides and mules (though as indicated before, it will be slightly more expensive from here).

At section #7 which is the branching-off point uphill, there is a small grocery store (小卖部) within a huge Tibetan house that also provides accommodation. It can take up to 20 people at whatever price one is willing to pay (I stayed at my guide’s home).

Lawalin: the only accommodation here is to stay with any of the 12 Tibetan households. These Tibetans are extremely hospitable and would normally accommodate and feed strangers at whatever they are willing to compensate.

Changhaizi: the only accommodation near the lake is either camping or staying in any of the few herdsmen’s summerhouses. These houses are basically stacked-up rocks and timber pieces with canvas or plastic sheets to protect against the wind. Warm sleeping bag is a must. Most of the herders would request 15 RMB for a night’s stay.

Trek Date: October 2006
Written by CBP in November 2006

More in Jiulong: ⇒ Yalong River Trek